Paint Effects Chart
+++ Paint Effects Chart +++

"Black" Ork Skin > Prime with Chaos Black. Use Dark Angels Green, then ink with Dark Green or Ork Flesh Wash. Highlight with Snot and Goblin Green on small and prominent areas. This technique looks much better than simply painting "Black" Orks with black paint.
Black and Yellow Warning/Safety Stripes > Here's an easy way to create the black and yellow warning stripes frequently used in WH40K. Paint the area you want stripped in Sunburst Yellow. When dry, use a micropoint felt tip pen to draw the two outlines for each diagonal black stripe. You can eyeball these outlines or make a template out of card if you want them perfect. Now, paint within the black lines with Chaos Black and you're done. If you're really lazy, you can skip the black paint and just color the stripes with the black felt tip, but a lot of the ink in these pens fades over time, so painting makes more sense.
Checkerboard > Painting a checkerboard pattern is easier than you think. Underpaint the entire area in white. When dry, draw a grid with a felt tip pen. Use a ruler or a piece of thin card on curved surfaces. Once you have the grid, simply paint inside the squares with black paint. *
Chipped Paint > To add paint chips, scratches and gashes to armor, first paint the area where you want the chip, black. Then paint over the black with the color you want to be "revealed" where the paint has apparently chipped away. Paint this color right up to the edges of the black, but leaving a thin black outline all around the edge. So, for instance, on a red power fist, you would paint the chipped area black, then, Boltgun Metal, leaving a thin black line between the black and the red.

Chipped armor from Clouseau's "How to Paint a Space Marine."
Horn > Paint primed horn in Bleached Bone. Paint Skull White on tip and a brown wash at the base. Paint fading thin black (or dark brown) lines along horn. *
Leather > Prime black, liberal db of white, brown ink wash (or thinned Bestial Brown).

> Prime black, liberal db of Snakebite Leather, finish with Chestnut Ink wash. Great for bat-type wings.

Ben Durbin's leathery
Gargoyle wings.
Mottled Pattern >

A suitably Eldar pattern on Anthony Crankshaw's Falcon Grav Tank.
Rust > Prime black, drybrush ("db") thoroughly with Tin Bitz, lightly db with Boltgun Metal.

> Prime black, Chestnut Ink or Flesh Wash, lightly db with Fiery Orange.

> For rust stains, dribble Brown or Chestnut wash where appropriate.

> For icky leaks, drip Bilious Green from bungholes on barrels, etc.

Many books and mags about military modeling have sections on weathering that detail how things rust, where rust would appear on metal surfaces, how to get various rust effects, etc.
Subtle Tryranid Skin > Dont paint your 'nids to look like Barney the Dinosaur! Start with a black primer and then lightly db on your 'nid colors. Cover these with an ink wash in a darker shade of your drybrushed color. Your 'nids with thank you for giving them some self-respect. We've always been proponents of more natural-looking Tyranid paint schemes, so we're thrilled the GW studio sculpters and painters have decided the same.

DISCLAIMER: While we have tried many of the techniques outlined here, we have not tested all of them. Some have come from modeling books and magazines, some from other 40K hobbyists. When we put tips up here, we try to test them out ourselves ASAP so we can clarify any confusion or remove a tip if it doesnąt work as advertised. This process will take awhile. Keep this in mind when trying these on your models. We make no claims about the effectiveness or safety to your models (or you) of any of these techniques. APPLY AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you do try a technique and have success, failure or ideas on improving it, please email us.